Fashion cannot make you sexy. Experience makes you sexy. Imagination makes people sexy. You have to train yourself, you have to study, and you have to live your life.”
— 山本耀司 (via killheji)
People who believe they’ll be happy if they go and live somewhere else, learn it doesn’t work that way. Wherever you go, you take yourself with you.”
— Neil Gaiman (via pseudoism)
Comme des garçons, 1988
“Of course there are business as well as creative reasons for the Comme des Garçons style. The point of a remarkable interior is to evoke such a strong sense of identity that even the most humble purchase - a belt or a pair of socks - brings with it some of that underlying identity. The contrast between the textures of the garments, hanging on neatly spaced racks that read like sculptural elements and the cement wall is all part of the establishment of the uniqueness of the Comme des Garçons label. To put too many garments on display can diminish their impact, hence the company’s first Paris shop had on show less than half the stock a conventional high-fashion retailer would have installed. In environments with so few distractions, the customer can hardly fail to be aware of the subtle qualities of the clothes.”
from rei kawakubo and comme des garçons
“We are losing those young people because we have too much information by media, especially [through computers]. We can see everything at the same time, so already they are spoiled too much. So when we have talk sessions with young designers or students, I tell them: “Be bright. Your eyes have become dirty.””
— Yohji Yamamoto (via hypn)
When I do interviews about my work, sometimes I find that I have to explain about my personal story. For example, fashion movement. Two rivers sometimes meet, then say goodbye. It happens. And when I first came to Paris to do a show, everyone was saying, “Dress up, dress up, dress up.” So I hated it. So let’s dress down, let’s break. Why do you have to follow this special elegance? There are other kinds of elegance. We have to be free in front of many kinds of beauty. In this modern age, good design is sometimes too simple, and I find that this is absolutely against a point of beauty, simplicity. And this is a kind of kabuki, or ceremony. And when you remember the time of art nouveau, La Belle Epoque, you can find so many kinds of useless beauty, nonsense beauty. But sometimes in your life, you have to understand that kind of beauty, because if you follow just simple convenience to live, you lose something. So I wanted to say, “Let’s have some nonsense, useless spirit on the clothes. Let’s play.””
— Yohji Yamamoto, “The French collection: true to form” (via organization)
But it definitely had its redemptive elements in the early shows, notably in its conversion of Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garcons from intellectual shroud-maker to a designer of fresh, realistic and, yes, feminine fashion. Yohji Yamamoto stuck to his Oriental sword, but interjected a new, if occasionally awkward body-defining wrapping. And Thierry Mugler ponied through the Sixties with a luridly nostalgic collection that makes one wonder if Stephen Sprouse — who triggered the whole Sixties revival — hasn’t unleashed a monster on the world.
COMME DES GARCONS — who would ever have thought it? Fashion intellectual samurai Rei Kawakubo went ingenue for spring, neath and the well-crafted dresses of which Mugler is capable, which render hourglass curves without kitsch or vulgarity.
YOHJI YAMAMOTO — Like Kawakubo, he’s obviously made an attempt to go beyond the cerebral somberness of so-called vanguard Japanese fashion, a look for which retailers had lost affection — not to mention sales — by last season. Accordingly, there is a new, richer color palette and an attempt to pull fabric in closer to the body. Unfortunately, Yamamoto’s drapes, cowls and wraps are not always flattering, particularly when they sag beneath the derriere. This is a collection, in fact, that might have benefited from being shown with its collective backs against a wall, as there’s nearly always some distracting detail in the rear, including a ducktail bustle and long rear-zippered flies. There is also a heaviness in much of Yamamoto’s use of longer lengths.
— “Paris stays in shape for spring, likes lots of leg,” WWD Oct. 19, 1984
Yes, you read all of that correctly. That’s what they actually said.
Every generation comes thinking they are destined to change the world. My generation’s duty is perhaps the most difficult because they know they will not change it. This duty my generation has is to stop the world of crumbling into pieces.”
— Albert Camus (via werrottende)