Sexy” is too simplistic a word to describe these clothes, though Saint Laurent at his worst overemphasizes a woman’s shape, and then his clothes look tarty. When he’s at his best, their sex appeal is part of something larger—a sense of pride, even of power. His clothes also convey intelligence, dignity, integrity, arrogance, sophistication, and a respect for order. The dread and hopelessness that pervade so many of the recent clothes by Japanese designers, notably Rei Kawakubo, are nowhere to be found in Saint Laurent’s collections. Japanese fashion in its more extreme forms prefigures a world that no one is looking forward to. The woman who wears Comme des Garcons (Kawakubo’s label) is well off but not proud of it, unwilling to dress herself up so that other people have something pleasing to look at, and overburdened by the news she reads every day in the paper.

”

— “The truth in Fiction” by Holly Brubach The Atlantic May 1984

Reminder of how Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto were discussed by press post their debut. Often time Saint Laurent was used as a juxtaposition and example of what was considered “good.” (via organization)

Yohji Yamamoto "Cutting Age" »

Premiere in Berlin